Displaying historical costumes requires a delicate balance between art and science. Textiles are extremely fragile and react to even the slightest changes in their environment. A successful exhibition preserves history whilst telling a compelling story.

Mannequins create narrative and an immersive experience

By displaying clothing on a mannequin, you create a human setting that is instantly recognisable to the viewer. Garments convey personal and social stories. Visitors want to discover the person behind the fabric.

The benefits of displaying historical clothing on a mannequin

• Historical silhouette
  The mannequin shows how the clothing draped around the body, including the influence of historical corsets or hoop skirts.
• Themes
  Group objects based on social status, craftsmanship or historical events.
• Personal stories
  Display diary extracts or letters from the original owner.
• Context
  Combine the fashion with paintings, accessories and furniture from the same period.
• Inclusivity
  Alongside elite fashion, also display everyday workwear worn by ordinary citizens.

Which mannequins are suitable?

The size of the mannequin

Modern mannequins have different proportions (often taller and slimmer) than people in the past, which forces the fabric into an unnatural, damaging shape. Think, for example, of shoulders that are too broad.

Choose a mannequin one size smaller than the clothing size. You want to avoid as much mechanical strain on the clothing as possible. You can add some padding in specific areas under the clothing to prevent it from sagging. We have mannequins in various historical sizes. We can supply adult figures from 155 cm upwards.

The position of the mannequin

A mannequin that stands completely rigid looks rather unnatural. You should therefore choose a mannequin that is adjustable at key points. With a slight hinge mechanism in the shoulders and elbows, objects can be held in a natural way. Depending on the desired position, you can also opt for hinged waist and knees, or a fully flexible figure with a bendable internal frame. Here too, it is better for the mannequin to be slightly too small than too large, as otherwise the bending may put extra strain on the fabric and seams.

Please note that if you want to position the mannequin in a sitting position, the fabric and seams around the lower back and knees can quickly become overstretched. In this case, it is even more important to use a slightly smaller mannequin.

Limit contact with gases and acids

This is the area that generates the most debate (and the least consensus). It is possible to make mannequins from inert polyethylene foam. These mannequins have a grainy texture, lack detail and are always left unpainted, as applying paint would compromise their chemical inertness.

Create a barrier between the mannequin and the clothing

As we aim for the most realistic representation possible with our mannequins, we prefer to apply a barrier layer between the painted mannequin and the delicate clothing to prevent contact with gases and acids from the plastic and paint.

Water-based acrylic paint

On request, we can paint the mannequins with acrylic paint (water-based), finished with a coat of matt clear acrylic varnish. After approx. 4 weeks, the water has completely evaporated and the acrylic polymers have fused together, making the outer layer inert.

Tyvek coveralls as an intermediate layer

Glass fibre, polyurethane and polyester cure through outgassing. By the time we deliver the mannequin to you, the vast majority of the gases will have already dissipated. To prevent direct contact between the clothing and the mannequin, you can dress the mannequin in a chemically inert Tyvek coverall. You can seal the openings with acid-free tape. A buffer layer between the Tyvek coverall and the clothing is not necessary.

An alternative method is to use Marvelseal (a metallised barrier film). Marvelseal is both smooth and rough to the touch and may have sharp edges. Never dress the mannequin directly over the film; instead, use a soft buffer layer.

Dressing the mannequin

If you wish to display delicate garments, first cover the mannequin with a chemically inert layer, such as a Tyvek coverall. Historical clothing only drapes beautifully if the mannequin provides the correct anatomical support.

Undergarments are the foundation

A hoop skirt, historical corset or bustle (tournure) is essential if the garment was originally designed to be worn with one. Without this support, the outer fabric will hang limply and the garment will crease more quickly.

Weight distribution

Heavy trains and skirts are given extra invisible support points. Heavy skirts must be anchored at the mannequin’s waist, not simply hanging from the shoulders. This prevents the shoulder seams of an antique dress from tearing.

Padding

Tissue paper and chemical-free wadding support hollow areas.

No pins

Direct piercing of historical fabric is strongly discouraged.

Step-by-step guide to dressing a mannequin

Manipulating a stiff or delicate historical garment over a mannequin’s limbs poses the greatest risk of immediate damage. The easiest way to dress a mannequin is to first remove loose parts such as the arms, legs and head, slip the garments over them separately, and then reassemble the mannequin.

Follow this clear step-by-step guide to dress a mannequin efficiently and without causing damage:

1. Dismantling the mannequin

• Remove the head: Remove this first to prevent damage.
• Detach the arms: Twist or click the arms loose from the torso.
• Remove the torso from the base: Detach the mannequin from the floor plate or the back pin.

2. Dressing the lower half

• Put on the trousers or skirt: Slide the trouser legs over the legs whilst the torso is still detached.
• Place the mannequin on the stand: Place the mannequin on the foot or calf pin, or carefully slide the back pin under the clothing into the correct slot on the mannequin. Alternatively, use a belt stand.
• Put on the shoes: Do this immediately after the mannequin is on the stand to ensure good stability.

3. Dressing the upper body

• Slip the sleeves over the separate arms: First, thread the separate arms fully through the sleeves of the shirt, jumper or jacket.
• Cover the torso: Place the garment over the headless upper body.
• Snap the arms into place: Reattach the arms (including the sleeves) to the torso.
• Replace the head: As a final step, place the head back on the body.

 Useful expert tips

• Use a sandwich bag: Pull a plastic bag over rough silicone or PVC hands. This allows tight sleeves to slide over them effortlessly.
• Work from the inside out: Put on base layers (such as a T-shirt) first, and only then top layers (such as a jacket or jumper).
• Cut the Tyvek coverall into pieces: If you wish to use a Tyvek coverall as an inert intermediate layer, you can cut it into pieces, slide the separate sections over the limbs, put the clothing to be displayed over them, assemble the mannequin and tape the Tyvek coverall back together using acid-free tape. Do this carefully so as not to damage the clothing.
• Fill in any gaps or use clips: Is the garment too loose? Fill in any gaps with chemically inert polyester wadding, or use invisible clothes pegs at the back to ensure the outfit hangs with a nice, fitted silhouette.